When Chateau de Campuget's 1998 Syrah was presented for tasting, its final label and name was undecided. Crafted from 100% Syrah harvested at 30 hectoliters per hectare and aged entirely in new oak barrels, this saturated, dark ruby-colored wine reveals black raspberry, blackberry, and tar-like aromas. It is highly extracted, well-structured, and tight. Chewy black fruits, leather, and asphalt are found in this sur-maturite-laced and admirably long wine. Regrettably, only 100 cases were produced. Anticipated maturity: now-2005. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; (202) 832-9083.