The 2009 Rosso di Montepulciano impresses for its classy, understated personality. It is a fresh, perfumed Rosso best enjoyed while the fruit retains its sweet, floral qualities. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to taste the complete line-up from Avignonesi this year. The Cortona Desiderio and both Vin Santos had not been bottled as we went to press. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405