The 1990 Chardonnays represent the pinnacle of what this grape is capable of achieving in California. The 1990 Durrell Vineyard Chardonnay revealed a nose that was reminiscent of Louis Latour's 1989 Batard-Montrachet. The scents of vanillin oak, nuts, butter, tropical fruits, and minerals are riveting. In the mouth, it is expansive, with superb richness, a multi-dimensional personality, layer upon layer of fruit, and a long, zesty finish. This is a beautifully made, complex Chardonnay for drinking over the next 4-5 years.
The extraordinary team of Steve Kistler and Mark Bixler fashions exhilarating Chardonnays that are compellingly complex, lavishly rich, and exceptionally well-balanced. One can quibble over which is best, but they are all immensely satisfying Chardonnays. Given how irresistible they are young, most of them are probably drunk within hours of purchase. That may be a shame, as Kistler's best cuvees of 1987 and 1988 are aging exceptionally well.
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