Dry River doesn’t get a ton of press for its Chardonnay, but this is a terrific example of what Martinborough can do. Restrained toast and oak-spice elements complement fruits that range from melon to apple and citrus. It’s medium in body, with a long, crisp, citrusy finish. Drink it over the next 5–6 years. ——J.C.(6/1/2010)—— 92