Ratcheting up the level of concentration, the 2007 Merlot Vintner’s Select (100% Sonoma fruit) reveals a dense purple color, full-bodied power, a beautiful nose of sweet black cherries, black currants, chocolate and espresso beans and deep, fleshy, intense, velvety textured flavors bursting with red and black fruits and spices. This gorgeous Merlot should drink well for a decade. This brilliant estate, whose vineyards straddle the Napa/Sonoma county line at the top of Spring Mountain, continues to turn out a bevy of exciting wines that first made headlines when Bob Foley was the winemaker. The transition from Foley to the current winemaker, Sally Johnson, has gone flawlessly. Tel. (707) 963-4949; Fax (707) 963-6039

Smells and tastes super-oaky, with dominating notes of vanilla, clove, dill and caramel. Although there’s a ton of cherry, chocolate and raspberry fruit, sweet vanilla and toast still is the main element. Maybe it’s going through a dumb phase and simply needs time. Try again after 2011.——S.H.(9/1/2010)—— 87