The 2011 Passopisciaro is Nerello Mascalese aged in large oak casks for 18 months. It shows soft spice and good tannin management with evolved aromas of pressed fruit, ash and smoked bacon. The mouthfeel is streamlined, fresh and elegant. Drink 2015-2025. Andrea Franchetti is the original “man against the volcano.” This eccentric and utterly charming nobleman from Tuscany fell in love with Etna and decided to set up shop in the sleepy town of Passopisciaro following his success at Tenuta di Trinoro in Sarteano, Siena Province. As Andrea tells it, the Etna challenge was anything but easy. He fought with local sheepherders for control of his own property and is often under the threat of forest fires (from both arsonists and volcanic molten lava). For years, he was seen as an outsider within the closed and insular Etna community. But Andrea Franchetti’s contribution to the wine culture that now flourishes on Etna cannot be overstated. He is one of the founding fathers of this pioneering appellation. I once asked Andrea if he preferred making wine in Tuscany or Etna. “Sometimes I consider leaving Tuscany and coming to Etna full time,” he replied. Importer: T. Edward Wines, www.tedwardwines.com