Rich and austere, the 1999 Barbaresco Riserva Rabaja, made from vines averaging 55 years of age, offers complex notes of dense dark fruit, prunes, plums, spices, minerals, leather and animal on an exceptionally long and structured frame. Much more expressive than when last tasted, this powerhouse Barbaresco shows plenty of style, with an authoritative personality and a lovely note of sweetness that rounds out the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620