The 2005 Mirto de Ramon Bilbao is the bodega’s nod to the newer international style. The grapes are all from 70+-year-old vineyards, most of them estate owned. Malolactic fermentation occurred in barrel with batonnage followed by 24 months in new Allier oak. The wine was then bottled without fining or filtration. Opaque purple-colored, it offers superb aromatics including aromas of wood smoke, toast, creosote, spice box, leather, and assorted black fruits. Smooth textured, elegant, yet powerful, this layered effort will evolve for 4-6 years and drink well through 2025. Bodegas Ramon Bilbao was founded by Ramon Bilbao Murga in 1924. Bilbao, in addition to his focus on Tempranillo, was one of Spain’s pioneers in the art of aging wine. In addition to the wines reviewed below, in 2007 Bilbao (no longer family-owned) introduced a line of value priced wines called “Volteo”. Several of those are noted in the Best Buy chart at the end of this report. Importer: Quintessential Wines, Napa, CA; www.quintessentialwines.com

Thick and rich, this red layers smoke and toast notes over ripe plum, blackberry, mineral and cola, an intriguing blend of sweet and earthy flavors. Though muscular, it remains fresh through the spicy finish. Quite oaky now, but should develop well. Drink now through 2015. 1,675 cases made.??–TM??Region: Spain / Rioja Select to Add

Almost mustard lift (not unpleasant), with sweet oak overlaying. Extracted but elegant. Mineral, herbal with lots of berry fruit. Young and modern but has restraint.

This is far and away the best Mirto of all time. It’s ripe and brawny, with bacon and black-fruit aromas that put it squarely into the Nuevo Classic mold. In the mouth, licorice and nutmeg flavors give character to smooth blackberry and dark plum flavors, while the finish is cushioned, herbal and long. Immediately appealing but with five to ten years of aging potential.——M.S.(4/1/2008)—— 92