Moving on to Masi’s traditional wines, the 2011 Valpolicella Classico Bonacosta opens to a dark ruby color and sharp aromas of forest berry, pressed rose, cherry cola and almond. It feels clean in the mouth with bright acidity that cleans the way for the next sip. This is a great option for informal occasions. Drink 2013-2015. Winemaking excellence should be consistent, but it must never be static. This is a lesson I learned at a recent tasting spanning five decades of Masi’s wines including the 1967, 1973, 1979, 1983, 1988, 1990, 1995, 1997, 2003 and 2007 Amarones Classico, Riserva, Vaio, Campolongo and Mazzano. Sandro Boscaini and his team of technicians have been tinkering with their signature style for many decades. Like a New York cab swerving between traffic lanes, they’ve veered into more oak, less oak, more extraction and less extraction. Despite the manic maneuvering, they never venture far from the centerline. Importer: Kobrand Corporation, www.kobrandwineandspirits.com