The Geantet-Pansiot 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes predictably offers another level of concentration than the corresponding Jeunes Rois bottling, If all else were equal, that added concentration might not be especially welcome, but fortunately this is a bit less austere and somber a wine. Tart blackberry is mingled with licorice, meat stock, and an invigoratingly saline sense of mineral and animal savor that makes for both saliva- and thought-provoking finishing flavor. There is a textural polish here – albeit with lots of tannin and an impressive underlying sense of density – that make it flattering today, yet likely to stand up well to half a dozen years in the bottle. After having been pleasantly surprised – even startled – by the quality of Vincent Geantet's 2005 collection, his 2006s demonstrated his talents in a challenging vintage. Geantet waited until the 25th of September to begin picking. He says that at most 10% of fruit needed to be culled from his crop, because proper vine management minimized problems with under-ripeness, botrytis, or taint of hail. Furthermore, his overall yields – unusually for the vintage – were, he reported, normal. As is routine at this address, a nearly uniform 30% level of new barrels was maintained (without its being obviously noticeable); malos were over well before Spring; and bottling took place during the second winter, leaving no indication in the glass that this was premature. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228