A limited selection, the 1978 Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva reveals a medium ruby color with lightening at the edge, along with a perfume of fresh mushrooms intertwined with cedar, spice cake, red currants, and sweet cherries. Medium-bodied and elegant, with light tannin, noticeable acidity (a hint of volatile acid), and loads of character, it is not nearly as deep as its younger sibling, but it is a pretty, distinguished effort. Drink it over the next 5-7 years.Importer: William Grant & Sons, Edison, NJ; tel. (732) 225-9000

Elegant and vivid, this red offers berry, raisin, spice, tea and tobacco flavors that float over firm tannins and tart acidity. Still lively, with distinctive character, it's a fine example of traditional Rioja. Drink now through 2010. 1,200 cases made, 75 cases imported.??–TM??Region: Spain / Rioja Select to Add

Old wines are not easy to appreciate, so we’d almost rather have you judge this wine. In our opinion, it’s way too sour and lacking in fruit to justify rave reviews. Thirty years of age doesn’t seem to have helped it, and what’s left is sherried and pruny, yet with sharp acidity.——M.S.(8/1/2008)—— 83