As a longtime fan of Aldo Conterno's Barolos, I must admit the current offerings are potentially the best he has yet made. No well-funded Nebbiolo lover will be able to resist them.Conterno's most flattering Barolo is the 1989 Vigna Cicala. Slightly less saturated in color than the 1988 Barolo-Gran Bussia, with a huge nose of smoke, jammy red and blackberries, licorice, herbs, and tobacco, this opulent, voluptuously textured Barolo has significant tannin, but it is nearly buried under lavish quantities of sweet, expansive fruit. This hedonistic Barolo should continue to evolve for 15 or more years. Of his 1989 Barolos, the Vigna Cicala is the one to drink first.Importers: Vias Imports, Great Neck, NY and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA.