From the well-known Monforte d'Alba producer, Aldo Conterno, the dark ruby/garnet color 1998 Barolo Cicala possesses the high acidity, little weight, and plenty of elegance. Notes of soy, Asian spices, red cherries, minerals, and herbs are found in this spicy, medium-bodied, stylish, moderately tannic 1998. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2014. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Starts off decadent and earthy, but then changes to pure fruit and flowers. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a long, beautiful finish. Solid and handcrafted. Such beauty here. --1998 Piedmont blind retrospective (2008). Best from 2010 through 2016. 800 cases made. -JS