The 2007 Barolo Cicala is every bit as compelling as the Colonello, although it is completely different in its personality. Here the poor soils yield a massively tannic Barolo infused with minerals, violets, menthol, tar and new leather. While the Colonello is a more overt, fruit-driven Barolo, the Cicala plays off its structural components to a far greater degree. The wine’s inner perfume and minerality dazzle from start to finish. This is another magnificent Barolo from Aldo Conterno. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032.