The profound, dense garnet/ruby-colored 1997 Barolo Marenca displays a spectacular bouquet of roasted espresso, kirsch liqueur, blackberries, tobacco, sardines, cedar, and leather. Sumptuous in the mouth, full-bodied, with an exotic overripe character, this dense, thick Barolo tastes sweet because of the high glycerin levels. As it was in cask, this 1997 Barolo remains dominated by its baby fat. Anticipated maturity: now-2015. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411