The 2005 Barthenau Vigna S. Michele is an oak-aged blend of 70% Pinot Bianco, 25% Chardonnay and 5% Sauvignon and Riesling. Though not especially expressive in its aromatics this full-bodied white does offer plenty of ripe fruit and excellent concentration. Still, there is something lacking in the wine’s delineation and the tannins are not quite as polished as I had hoped. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2012.
Proprietor Martin Foradori Hofstatter makes a wide range of wines from his vineyards, which are spread out among several of Alto Adige’s sub-zones. Hofstatter is among the most ardent ambassadors for his region and is capable of talking for hours about his wines and Alto Adige, which he clearly adores. The estate’s top bottlings are all worth seeking out. If there is one criticism to be made, it is that the quality of the entry-level wines could be more consistent.
Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799
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