The 2003 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Rasteau is a straightforward, elegant, richly fruity offering displaying a medium ruby color as well as an attractive, simple, up-front style that requires consumption over the next 1-3 years. Importer: New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (843) 497-8625

From a producer better known for Chateauneuf-du-Pape, this has a beautiful bouquet of crushed spices, violets, and black cherries followed by lush, deep flavors of plums, black cherries and peppery spice. It’s round and mouthfilling without being overwhelming, and it’s framed by soft tannins. Complexity is raised a notch on the finish via the folding in of espresso and black olive notes. Drink now–2010. ——J.C.(11/15/2006)—— 91