The 2006 Rasteau shows wonderfully generous, sweet, sexy roasted herbs interwoven with jammy black cherry fruit and currants. The wine has a hint of fig, is full-bodied, and shows that very chocolatey character that Grenache seems to achieve in this high-elevation appellation. One of the great families of Chateauneuf du Pape, the Coulons, have been estate bottling for nearly 100 years, and have an impressive, nearly unmatched record of quality. Moreover, one needs to keep an eye out for their best value wine, the Rasteau cuvees they produce. Importer: New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (843) 448-9463

Dried figs, Port-like Christmas cake. Quite jammy, lacks freshness. Good length, but lacks complexity.