There are 1000 cases of the light gold-colored, toasty 2006 Chardonnay Reserve. It was fermented with native yeasts, went through malolactic fermentation, and was aged in 15% new French oak for 18 months, The nose exhibits notes of apple, poached pear, and pineapple. Crisp and Cote de Beaune-like on the palate, mineral notes and hazelnuts put in an appearance leading to a lengthy, fruit-filled finish. Tel. (503) 628-1227; www.ponziwines.com

Confident winemaking brings extra dimensions to this reserve bottling. The grapes were whole cluster pressed and then barrel fermented and aged on the lees. It’s more forward and round than the 2005 from Ponzi, but still nicely detailed. Flavors focus on baked apple, brioche and marzipan; a delicious combination that invites sip after sip.——P.G.(2/1/2009)—— 90