An excellent lineup of vineyards, including estate, Red Mountain and Champoux fruit, contribute to this firm, meaty Merlot. It is chewy and substantial, with a core of black cherry and plenty of new oak. It resolves into flavors of mushroom, earth, coffee grounds and grainy baking chocolate. A return to form after the disappointing ’02. ——P.G.(10/1/2006)—— 89