The 2006 Merlot contains 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Syrah and was aged in predominantly new French oak. Deep crimson-colored, it delivers an enticing nose of wood smoke, pencil lead, vanilla, espresso, and black currant. Medium to full-bodied on the palate, it exhibits a smooth texture, generous spice and black fruit flavors, fine-grained tannins, and several years of aging potential. Give this layered effort another 3-4 years of bottle age, and drink it from 2013 to 2026. Woodward Canyon remains under the leadership of pioneering vigneron Rick Smalls. He has relinquished some of the winemaking duties but remains deeply involved in the estate’s viticulture. The top cuvees are built to last (a 1984 Cabernet from a challenging vintage tasted on the day of my visit was in fine form) and reward extended cellaring. Tel. (509) 525-4129; www.woodwardcanyon.com

There is a little Cabernet Sauvignon (15%) and Syrah (4%) in the blend also. This is a silky, yet muscular— let’s say it, masculine—style of Merlot. Meaning that the fruit is concentrated with deep blue and black berry and cassis flavors, augmented with lead pencil. Beautiful polish and concentration characterize this wine, yet it’s quite approachable.——P.G.(5/1/2009)—— 94