The 1995 Zinfandel Pagani Ranch (a concoction of 82% Zinfandel, 13% Mataro, and 5% Alicante made from 100-year old vines) boasts 15.2% alcohol, as well as a distinctive tarry, melted asphalt, peppery nose with the fruit dominated by the other components. Dense and inaccessible, this formidably built wine may dry out before the tannin fades away. It is completely different in style than either the exquisite 1994 or 1993. The 1995 Ridge Zinfandels are made in a backward, austere style, and, with the exception of the Geyserville, Lytton Springs, and Paso Robles, they are wines that may not develop as much character as previous vintages. Tel. (408) 867-3233