The opaque purple-colored 1997 Zinfandel Pagani Ranch (88% Zinfandel, 7% Mataro, 3% Petite Sirah, and 2% Alicante Bouchet that achieved 14.6% alcohol) exhibits what the French call sur maturite (over-ripeness). A monolithic wine with huge, muscular, concentrated flavors, it had not yet begun to reveal much delineation or evolution, despite the fact it is already in bottle. There are layers of concentrated fruit, plenty of blackberry, plum, jammy notes, and enough acidity and tannin to buttress this enormously-endowed wine. It will be even better with another six months of bottle age, and will last for 7-8 years.Tel. (408) 867-3233