Ghislaine Barthod's 1999 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras is finally beginning to enter its plateau of maturity, opening in the glass with a deep bouquet of cassis, red cherry, roasted venison and dried flowers. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and rock-solid at the core, with a voluminous chassis of fine-grained tannins. Incredibly concentrated and persistent, the Les Cras is of grand cru quality. It goes from strength to strength with air, so I'd advise opening it several hours before service.