A strong effort from Beaulieu, the 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve boasts a dense ruby/purple color in addition to a beautifully sweet nose of spicy oak intermixed with black cherries and currants. Full-bodied, rich, pure, and concentrated, it combines restraint and elegance with power and muscle. It will age well for two decades. While Beaulieu is no longer one of California's cutting edge wineries, this is classic stuff. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2020. Tel. (707) 963-2411; Fax (707) 963-5920

A profoundly deep nose of red and black fruit, with cedar, ginger and nutmeg. The sense of balance and grace is sublime, as layers of cassis, plum and cinnamon keep unfolding. The chewy finish is lengthy and elegant, and it should be held for no less than five years. This bottling honors its pedigree as California’s first classic Cabernet.——W.E.(11/1/2000)—— 94