The 2003 TINTO is a sexy bookend to the utterly charming 2004 reviewed last year. It is big and powerful, but coats your mouth with lush fruit. It has an intensely flavorful finish, and fine density. It should age beautifully. The 2004 (reviewed last year, 93 points) has more charm perhaps. This has more richness. Pick ‘em. Drink now-2018. Importer: W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Harrison, N.Y.; tel: (914) 251-3209.

A star among dry Douro wines, the 2003 Quinta do Vale Meao boasts a deep, intense bouquet of ripe grapes, spring flowers and anise-like spice. Plum, spice and vanilla flavors flow seamlessly across the palate, weighty yet never heavy, with a creamy texture. Long, lush and vibrant on the finish, with a hint of French roast coffee. Drink now–2015. Imported by W.J. Deutsch & Sons. ——J.C.(12/31/2005)—— 94