Altare is a genius in terms of turning out gloriously ripe, multidimensional, complex wines. This top-notch effort is super-rich, perfumed, and pleasing to both the intellectual and hedonistic senses. The smoky 1996 Larigi vino da tavola, a 100% barrique-aged Barbera, is a thrilling offering with a dark saturated purple color, superb ripeness, and lively acidity to buttress its concentrated, intense style. Consume it over the next 4-5 years A Marc de Grazia Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Altare is a genius in terms of turning out gloriously ripe, multidimensional, complex wines. This top-notch effort is super-rich, perfumed, and pleasing to both the intellectual and hedonistic senses. The smoky 1996 Larigi vino da tavola, a 100% barrique-aged Barbera, is a thrilling offering with a dark saturated purple color, superb ripeness, and lively acidity to buttress its concentrated, intense style. Consume it over the next 4-5 years A Marc de Grazia Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

This ranks as the most expensive Barbera we know of, and while good, you can’t help but question the price. It’s a wood cutter’s dream, with the hefty oak throughout manifested in the form of coffee and toast. Everything a good wine requires is here, and it improves exponentially with time in the glass.——W.E.(4/1/2000)—— 90