Il Poggione’s wines continue to change, evolving towards a slightly less mature style and offering more fruit and freshness. The 1998 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is only slightly better than the regular bottling, more garnet in tonality, somewhat more complex on the nose with notes of truffles and wild mushrooms along with the currant and cherry fruit, and a sizeable, weighty palate which still has a few tannins to round off. Drink: 2006-2018.

A fresh and clean wine with plum and cherry character and hints of flowers. Medium-bodied, with crisp acidity. Long finish. Brunello normale is slightly better. Drink now. 1,650 cases made. -JS