The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli emerges from the glass with masses of scorched earth, leather, tar, licorice, menthol and dark fruit. The Riserva shows a touch more inner sweetness, richness and depth in its fruit than the regular bottling, plus a bit more French oak as well. For now, the Riserva is quite reticent and requires air, but with time its awesome richness and power come through in spades. This dark, brooding and authoritative Riserva from Il Poggione is simply gorgeous.

Offers ripe blueberry notes, with hints of violet, lilac and sandalwood. Full-bodied, with supersilky tannins and a long, fresh finish. Not a big wine, but balanced and pretty. Best after 2011. 3,335 cases made.

This Brunello Riserva offers very nice intensity and smoothness in the mouth, although its aromatic bouquet is less determined. There are sweet polished tannins on the close and the wine would work with steak marinated with garlic and rosemary.