The Meo-Camuzet 2006 Vosne-Romanee Les Chaumes smells beautifully of coriander, mace, lily perfume, cherry preserves, and mossy forest floor. Broad, plush, and soothing on the palate, it finishes long and sweet, though with a hint of exposed tannin as well as heat. This is likely to be worth following for at least 5-7 years, though in vintage-typical fashion – and despite the tannin – I would consider drinking some already, provided one likes its very ripe, soft style. Meo thought it might still be a bit perturbed from bottling at the time that I tasted.
Jean-Nicolas Meo harvested 2006 fruit between 13.25-14.25% potential alcohol, slightly higher than in 2005. Except for a few instances of vineyards touched by hail, he said, he vinified in essentially the same way (including the same percentages of new barrels) as he had in 2005. Meo notes that the pHs of his 2006s ended up quite high after their malos, and while this contributes to their sense of softness and generosity, I sometimes find these wines wanting for some vivacity or primary juiciness. (I have appended to the description of Meo's negociant bottlings the words "Frere et Soeur" that appear underneath "Meo-Camuzet" on their labels.)
Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524. Also a Jean-Marie de Champs Selection (various importers), French fax 011 33 3 80 22 58 25
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