The 2008 Quella is a dark, brooding wine loaded with super-ripe dark black fruit, smoke, tar and licorice. It is a seriously intense wine that will require bottle age. This is an especially authoritative wine from Bond. Bill Harlan and his team make the BOND wines through long-term lease arrangements they hold with vineyard owners in a handful of top hillside sites in Napa Valley. The Melbury, Quella and Vecina vineyards are planted with 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. The St. Eden vineyard includes 5% Cabernet Franc that was recently grafted onto Merlot rootstocks, while the Pluribus vineyard includes 13% Merlot and 11% Cabernet Franc. Overall, the 2008s are less consistent than the 2009s, which are shaping up to be brilliant. I also tasted a number of 2010s from barrel with Bill Harlan and winemakers Bob Levy and Corey Empting that were striking for their purity, depth and class.

Full ruby-red color. Very ripe aromas of raspberry, licorice and menthol; this too struck me as claret-like. Sweet and refined in the mouth, already showing superb harmony to its raspberry, redcurrant and graphite flavors. Finishes with suave tannins and outstanding length. Like the Melbury, this seems balanced to give early pleasure but should have no trouble lasting for 15 to 20 years in bottle. (Incidentally, pHs here were average in 2008 but acids a bit higher, said director of winegrowing Bob Levy, who offered the opinion that 2008 was a bit like 2005 in style.)