The 2005 TINTO is a decent value in the vintage, round and smooth, with some modest power lurking underneath. It is grapey and young, showing relatively rich, sweet fruit. It feels dense in the mouth, yet it is quite graceful. I suspect this will come around faster than seems apparent now, and it will seem a bit simpler when it does, but it is quite appealing. Drink now-2014. This historic estate dates backs to the 18th Century. Its first dry wine was produced in 1997. Talented winemaker Francisco Olazabal, Jr. is also the winemaker at well regarded Quinta do Vale Meao. A fine vertical tasting at Vallado in mid-2007 demonstrated how well they are doing. After a few early missteps, the wines rounded into form. The basic Tintos showed extremely well from 2001 on. At under $20.00, they are among the Douro’s better bargains. Importer: Quintessential, Napa, CA; tel. (914) 725-3479.

The Sousao is one of the also-rans in Port terms, but here it shows great style and freshness, lifted by its dark tannins and solid fruit structure. A finely balanced wine that offers a touch of juicy red fruits, but also clear, ripe spice. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines.——R.V.(7/1/2008)—— 89

Named after Dona Antonia Adelaide Ferreira, who created Quinta do Vallado (and many other quintas) in the 19th century, this complex wine comes from a 100-year-old vineyard. Its concentration is immense, tannins solid, but at the same time the black cherry and dark plum flavors float over everything, leaving richness but also freshness. Worth aging for five years.——R.V.(4/1/2009)—— 93