The Jayer-Gilles 2006 Nuits-St.-Georges Hauts Poirets (from the rocky, non-premier cru upper portions of Les Poirets) pushes sheer sweetness of black raspberry and cherry to a liqueur-like, almost confectionary point, yet there is just enough juicy freshness to keep it lively on the palate, and that even despite the wine's sense of creamy, unusual viscosity and its insistent notes of resin, caramel, and brown spices from barrel, which in fact make themselves completely at home given the style of fruit. Suggestions of leather and beef jerky promise some future complexity in this polished, plush, long-finishing Pinot that should be worth cellaring and savoring for at least 6-8 years. Gilles Jayer is well-known for his wines' concentration, sweetness of fruit, and structure, and it was evident from cask that he had experienced no qualms or compunction about swinging for the fences in 2006, either. Jayer related that not more than 15% of inferior fruit had to be culled from any of his parcels. Malo-lactic transformations were even later and more protracted here in this vintage than in 2005. I last tasted these wines ten days before the commencement of bottling, which on account of their tardy evolution was due to take place the same week for all but one appellation. The likely exception was a Les Damodes "all" two and a half barrels of which still harbored malic acid and were full of gas Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

The Jayer-Gilles 2006 Nuits-St.-Georges Hauts Poirets (from the rocky, non-premier cru upper portions of Les Poirets) pushes sheer sweetness of black raspberry and cherry to a liqueur-like, almost confectionary point, yet there is just enough juicy freshness to keep it lively on the palate, and that even despite the wine's sense of creamy, unusual viscosity and its insistent notes of resin, caramel, and brown spices from barrel, which in fact make themselves completely at home given the style of fruit. Suggestions of leather and beef jerky promise some future complexity in this polished, plush, long-finishing Pinot that should be worth cellaring and savoring for at least 6-8 years. Gilles Jayer is well-known for his wines' concentration, sweetness of fruit, and structure, and it was evident from cask that he had experienced no qualms or compunction about swinging for the fences in 2006, either. Jayer related that not more than 15% of inferior fruit had to be culled from any of his parcels. Malo-lactic transformations were even later and more protracted here in this vintage than in 2005. I last tasted these wines ten days before the commencement of bottling, which on account of their tardy evolution was due to take place the same week for all but one appellation. The likely exception was a Les Damodes "all" two and a half barrels of which still harbored malic acid and were full of gasImporter: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

This shows the proper attention to structure that is the inheritance of any Nuits-Saint-Georges. But around that structure, Gilles Jayer builds a velvet curtain of ripe black fruits, touched with spice and leavened with acidity. It’s a wine that is delicious now, but certainly should be aged. ——R.V.(12/31/2008)—— 92