Displaying more new oak, the more tightly-knit 2004 Merlot Estate is somewhat closed and monolithic, but it exhibits deep, concentrated fruit, medium body, and a narrow, tannic style. It should round out with another 1-2 years in the bottle. It should drink well for a decade. Tel. (707) 963-7108; Fax (707) 945-1009

There’s a beautiful Merlot in here but you’re going to have to paddle against the powerful tannins to find it. It brings to mind the old Duckhorn Three Palms Merlots, which were similarly tough and tannic in youth, but aged well. This wine is ripe in chocolate, blackberry, cassis, coconut macaroon and plum sauce flavors, but needs four or five years to begin to come around. ——S.H.(3/1/2007)—— 90