The estate’s 2004 Nero d’Avola Vrucara shows the influence of smaller French oak barrels in its deeper color and more concentrated style. Dark fruit, sweet toasted oak, licorice and spices all flow as this full-bodied wine opens on the palate revealing notable length. The super-ripe style has been achieved while maintaining plenty of detail in the wine. Sweet notes of sage, rosemary and mint linger on the long finish. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2016.Importer: Selected Estates of Europe, Mamaroneck, NY; tel. (914) 698-7202

This boutique winery in central Sicily benefits from extreme isolation that has helped it nurture its own clone of Nero d’Avola. Oak tones and vanilla come in the foreground of cherry, blueberry and leather. The wine is balanced and soft with bright freshness on the close.——M.L.(3/1/2009)—— 92