The 2005 Merlot Ethos contains 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot, and 2% Malbec in the blend. Opaque purple-colored, it has a fragrant bouquet of pain grille, earth notes, black cherry, and blackberry jam. This leads to a mouth-coating wine with good depth and concentration while retaining a sense of elegance. The balance and length of the finish suggest that this solid effort will evolve for 2-3 years and be at its best from 2011 to 2020.Chateau Ste. Michelle, Washington’s largest winery, continues to demonstrate that being big is not incompatible with high quality. The latest set of releases may be the strongest to date.Tel. (425) 415-3300; www.ste-michelle.com

Given the exceptionally high standard that Merlots have established in Washington, this wine delivers. The sappy, juicy fruit flavors bring in a mix of berries, cassis and cherry; then there are layers of chocolate, coffee, smoke and toast. But the real joy is the muscle—the underpinning of structure (from acid, tannin, oak and of course great fruit) that contributes sinew and strength. This wine should age for a decade or more.——P.G.(6/1/2009)—— 90