From heritage California clones, the 2006 Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard displays high tannins, lots of body and depth, a distinct damp earthiness, and plenty of pomegranate and red cherry fruit.With over a dozen Pinot Noirs, one would think that winemaker Bob Cabral would be perennially stressed out having to deal with so many different vineyards. However, except for the blend of Russian River and Westside Road Neighbors, they are all legitimate vineyards, and I can fully comprehend why they would want to keep them separate. As I have said before, there is a clear “house” style, with wines tending to have a slightly higher acid profile, lower pHs. But there is no doubting that these are well-made wines which are, for the most part, age-worthy Pinot Noirs which, with some patience, reward cellaring. In 2006, a challenging vintage in the Russian River area (less so on the Sonoma Coast), the 2006 vintage has turned out well at Williams-Selyem. Of course, 2007 is a more fragrant, purer vintage from an integrity perspective, so those wines will be a no-brainer. I will comment on all the single vineyards, but as I write them, I must offer a word of advice: don’t dare ignore the brilliant Zinfandels and Chardonnays that Cabral turns out. They are not as renowned as the single-vineyard Pinots, but they are top-flight wines. A Pinot Noir that really depends on vintage for success is from the San Benito Valley south of San Francisco, home to the old Almaden winery.Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

Rich in fine, pure tannins, this Pinot is delicious now, but has the structure to age. It shows ripe wild black cherry, currant, mocha, anise and spice flavors that finish with a smoky, oaky sweetness. Best now for its approachability, and over the next few years.——S.H.(3/1/2009)—— 93