The 2009 Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard weaves across the palate with layers of expressive, ripe red fruit. The Hirsch impresses for its delineation and nuance, both of which are on full display here. Sweet dark berries, spices and licorice add complexity as the wine opens up in the glass. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. I tasted a dizzying array of Pinot Noirs from Williams Selyem and winemaker Bob Cabral. Yields were down in 2009 because of bunch-stem necrosis, a condition that can occur because of weather/humidity extremes or mineral imbalances. Otherwise, it was a pretty regular vintage with an even set and a harvest that took place beginning in early September. Tel. (707) 433-6425

Soft and ripe enough to drink now, after a decent decanting, it shows pure raspberry, blueberry and cherry fruit flavors, subtlely accented with cola and baking spices, and all of it wrapped into thick but smooth tannins. Good as it is, it will gain traction over the next 15 years. ——S.H.(2/1/2012)—— 95