The 2000s reveal more concentration than many of their peers. Surprisingly sexy as well as lavishly fruity and forward, the 2000 Cornas Les Ruchets possesses a dense ruby/purple color in addition to a full-bodied, roasted nose revealing hints of blackberries and espresso. An opulent, sensual Cornas, it is meant to be drunk over the next 10-12 years. The irrefutable modernist of the Rhone Valley, the well-known oenologist Jean-Luc Colombo continues to fine tune his winemaking. His barrel-aged Cornas cuvees are among the most progressively made offerings of the appellation, revealing no rusticity and supple tannin. Colombo practices cold soaks as well as other cutting edge techniques (i.e., micro-oxygenation) in order to subdue the substantial tannins of Cornas. Importer: Palm Bay International, Port Washington, NY; tel. (516) 802-4700.

A more supple, lighter-weight vintage. There’s more spice and cedar, less densely packed fruit. Picks up berry tea flavors and some drying astringency on the finish. Drink up.——J.C.(4/1/2007)—— 88