The 2004 Pinot Noir “Jerusalem Hill” comes from an estate-owned vineyard planted in 1999. The wine currently exhibits more oak than fruit aromatically as well as damp earth with some dark fruit aromas in the background. That leads to a firmly structured wine with a compact mid-palate and a slightly hard finish. Drink it near-term.At Domaine Serene no expense is spared in the pursuit of quality. The winery turns out some of Oregon’s finest Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. That said, on occasion, a vintage presents problems that are difficult to overcome as is the case with Domaine Serene’s 2004 Pinot Noirs. They range from very good to excellent but are not at the level normally associated with this estate. The good news is that the 2005s, which were still in barrel at the time of my visit in May 2007, are among the finest of that challenging year.Tel. (503) 864-4600; www.domaineserene.com. Also tasted: 2004 Chardonnay “Clos du Doleil Vineyard” (90), 2004 Chardonnay “Cote Sud Vineyard” (85), 2004 Chardonnay “Etoile Vineyard” (90)

Soft and rich, with appealing flavors of chocolate, cherry and butterscotch, this is a seductive wine. It is ripe but not hot, and the chocolaty richness wraps around the sweet cherry fruit but retains just enough of the leafy quality that defines it as Oregon. Nice balance and structure too.——P.G.(11/15/2007)—— 90