This fascinating white is two-thirds Chardonnay, but the rest is a beguiling blend of Pinot Blanc, Auxerois, Ehrenfelser, Scheurebe, Sylvaner and Ruhlander! Turns out the Alsatian vines were planted by the previous owner 20 years ago as personal vines for his own use. The wine is quite Euro in style, with a tangy, peppery flavor reminiscent of Gruner Veltliner. But along with the spice is some juicy, succulent green and yellow citrus fruit, with persistence and thrilling intensity. Editors’ Choice.——P.G.(4/1/2007)—— 90