Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux tasting. The 2012 Chateau L'If from Jacques Thienpont and Fiona Morrison has a broody, introspective bouquet that needs encouragement from the glass. Although it is tightly coiled, it feels well defined and the oak is nicely embedded into the fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy dark plum and blackberry fruit laced with graphite and tobacco. Masculine compared to its peers, this is another wine that will require long-term ageing. There is a lot to admire considering that the couple had only recently taken over the running of the property. Tasted January 2016.

Mind-bending aromas of red licorice, spices, bark and dark fruits. Yet reserved and balanced. The palate is phenomenal with compact fruit and polished tannins. It goes on for minutes. 62% merlot and 28% cabernet franc. This is the second vintage of Jacques Thienpont in St. Emilion with 7 hectares near Troplong Mondot. It's stunning. The onwer of Le Pin.