The 2009 Clos St. Denis initially comes across as big and powerful. The wine finds a more feminine side of its personality with time in the glass. Despite its deceptively mid-weight body, the 2009 has plenty of underlying structure and ideally needs to be cellared for at least a few years. The Clos St. Denis is the epitome of weightless elegance. Dark raspberries, flowers and sweet spices wrap around the eternal finish. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039. My tasting at Dujac was one of the highlights of the two weeks I spent in Burgundy in late November/early December 2011. I tasted through all the 2010s in barrel and 2009s in bottle. The domaine’s 2009s are among the wines of the vintage. Importers: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491-4724; Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500

A very rich wine, showing all the opulence of 2009. Black plums, damsons and wood flavors are already combined and integrated. The acidity in all this richness and power seems low, leaving the tannins to support aging. ——R.V.(9/1/2011)—— 95