Tasted from double magnum at the Stamford vertical tasting, the 1981 Montrose should be considered one of the go-to wines of this off-vintage. Perhaps the larger format played a part, nevertheless I warmed to the fresh and lively aromatics: black fruit, Hoi Sin, some blueberry and fresh mint developing with time in the glass. In fact, had I tasted this blind I would have averred it was the 1982! The palate is very well balanced with a fresh line of acidity, lively black fruit tinged with iodine and cedar. Whilst not persistent in the mouth, there is respectable weight and you soon find yourself reaching for that rapidly emptying wine glass for another sip. Could this be the one Bordeaux growth where the 1981 outpaces the succeeding vintage? Tasted May 2016.

In a holding pattern now; a fine claret at its peak. Medium-red to garnet color with spicy, chocolate character on the nose and palate. Medium-bodied with a soft texture and cedar aftertaste. Drink now.--The Bordeaux 50. -JS

Montrose produced an elegant, understated, shy, medium-weight wine in 1981. This streamlined version of Montrose is fully mature, but seems to lack the necessary concentration and richness to last very long. I find it excessively austere. Anticipated maturity: Now-2000. Last tasted, 12/90.