The 2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts is also showing nicely from bottle, unfurling in the glass with a youthfully reserved bouquet of raspberries, plums, grilled squab and warm spices that are framed by a deft application of classy new oak. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with a rich chassis of tannin, fine concentration and a more introverted profile than the expressive Beaumonts.