Thanks to their one-third share of that cru, the Domaine du Clos Frantin's 2006 Vosne-Romanee Les Malconsorts represents a larger volume than does the corresponding village wine. This displays the stuffing and grip that are prominent throughout Bichot's 2006 collection, here informed by refreshing, tart black fruits; deep roasted meet richness; and chalky, saline that take center stage in an admirably long, savory finish. It should benefit from a couple of years in bottle and be worth following for a good half dozen. The Albert Bichot firm incorporates no fewer than four separate domaines – the venerable Long-Depaquit in Chablis (about which, consult my reports in issues 186 and 179); Nuits-St.-Georges-based Domaine du Clos Frantin; Pommard-based Domaine du Pavillon; and the much smaller Domaine Adelie in Mercurey – each of which has its own press house, those in the Cote de Beaune and Cote de Nuits also processing purchased grapes. Alberic Bichot is articulate and enthusiastic when it comes to expounding his company's qualitative ambitions and the results showed amid the subset of both white and red wines I tasted, which, incidentally, are all matured in 350- rather than 225-liter barrels. Numerous importers, including Atherton Wine Imports, Menlo Park, CA, tel. (650) 328-6639 and Bayfield Importing, Long Island, NY (718) 482-0200

The instant appeal of seductive Pinot Noir is here, with its ripe fruits that are poised between sweetness and a pure line of acidity. The fruit is juicy, but always fresh, with wild strawberry flavors and just some spice from wood. ——R.V.(12/31/2008)—— 91