The plum and coffee aromas and flavors merge nicely with the toast and vanilla overtones from good oak barrels. Harmonious and elegant now, it can develop only more nuances with age. Should begin to come into its own by 1996. -

Excellent, nearly outstanding, the 1986 Certan de May has a dark garnet color with some lightening at the edge. A nose of smoked herbs, damp earth, truffle, licorice, hickory barbecue spices, and sweet cherries and currants is very complex. In the mouth, this medium-bodied wine is close to full maturity, but still retains more austerity than I like to see. The tannins are there, and will probably never be completely integrated, but the complex aromatics and almost Medoc-like performance of this wine are impressive. The wine can be approached now, but still needs another several years to reach full maturity. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2015. Last tasted, 3/02.