Reminding me of the 2005, the 1995 Gigondas is a firm, masculine wine that's fully mature, yet is still holding nicely and offers plenty to like. Dusty earth, graphite, mineral and dark fruits all flow to a medium-bodied, nicely textured and rustic Gigondas that needs consuming over the coming couple of years.

In my estimation, Yves Gras is the reigning superstar in Gigondas. The 1995 vintage is unequivocally a splendid success for Santa Duc. The wines, now in bottle, are even stronger and richer than they tasted in cask. The superb 1995 Gigondas Cuvee Classique exhibits a dense purple color, and a sensational nose of cassis, kirsch, tar, and smoke. The wine hits the palate with explosive ripeness and richness, and no evidence of oak. A gutsy, brilliant effort, this full-bodied, lusciously-concentrated, textbook Gigondas should drink well for 10-12 years. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083