Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, the 2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot from Olivier Leflaive Frères displayed a lot of reduction on the nose and it was difficult discerning what lay behind it. The palate is crisp on the entry with a fine bead of acidity, although it does not quite deliver the depth and complexity of its peers, at least at this infant stage. Graceful and elegant, I would be inclined to drink this over the next several years.

A stony, chalk-infused white, with notes of peach, apple, lemon, butterscotch and pastry. Vibrant and racy, with a slightly hard edge on the lingering finish. Best from 2019 through 2028.

Named after the ruined abbey which the vineyard surrounds, this is a smooth, generous and beautifully opulent wine. The vines, owned by the Leflaive family, give a bold, spicy wine, rich in white stone fruits, intense acidity and a firm mineral texture. There is just enough toasty flavor to give the wine extra complexity. Drink this impressive wine from 2021.