Aromas of wild berries, cassis, incense, smoked duck and rose hip introduce the 2017 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, a full-bodied, ample and layered wine that's quite charming and open-knit by the standards of Clos Vougeout and even by the standards of this routinely elegant cuvée. Framed by fine-grained tannins, it's pure, fleshy and elegant, and it should shine at a comparatively early age.